Organic Mulch: A Complete Guide to The Best Natural Mulches

Choose the best organic mulch for your garden from the following types of organic mulch

Before we get into the details of each type of organic mulch, download a free, printable mulching cheat sheet. It walks you through my easy three-step process for choosing the best mulch for your garden.

Wood Chip Mulch – Highly recommended for all ornamental gardens

Wood chips can come in many sizes. Some smaller-sized wood chip mulches would better be described as “ground” wood mulch.

The smaller the chip size, the more likely it is to stay in place. The larger chips are lighter, blow around more, and can float away in strong rainstorms.

Wood chip mulch is best for mulching trees and shrubs, flower beds, perennial flowers, orchards, and walkways in flower and vegetable gardens.

Depth: 2-4 inches, depending on the size of the chips or how finely ground it is. Bigger chips can be applied more deeply.

Advantages: Is usually attractive. Adds organic matter – this is especially helpful for perennial plantings where you can’t easily amend the soil.

It also lets in water, prevents evaporation of water, suppresses weeds well, moderates soil temperature, and is free of weed seeds. Smaller chips or more finely ground wood are less likely to blow or wash away than larger chips. It doesn’t readily compact. And finally, it reduces and often reverses soil compaction.

Disadvantages: Larger chips can blow or float away. It must be topped off — top-dress larger chips every 1-3 years, smaller chips every 1-2 years.

Notes:

• I recommend uncolored wood mulch. Read my review of colored wood mulch.
• Don’t create mulch volcanoes when you mulch trees.
• Don’t install wood chip mulches over landscape fabric.
• Wood chip mulch isn’t recommended in vegetable beds next to plants but is fine to use in vegetable garden pathways.

Will wood chips tie up nitrogen in my soil and steal it from my plants? Good news! This is a myth.

• If the mulch sits on top of your soil, any nitrogen tie-up will be tiny and won’t affect your plants.
• But, if you turn it under or till wood chips into your soil, it’ll tie probably tie up some nitrogen. So, if you don’t turn it under, wood chip mulch WON’T rob your plants of nitrogen.
• In annual flower beds, rake off the mulch before planting, and re-mulch after your plants are in to avoid turning it under and creating that possible nitrogen deficit.

Straw Mulch – Best organic mulch for vegetable gardens

Straw mulch is the best organic mulch for vegetable gardens. It’s especially helpful for keeping your soil cool in the warmer months. If you want to warm your vegetable garden soil, see plastic mulches for vegetable gardens.

Depth: 2-3 inches.

Advantages: It lets in water, prevents evaporation of water, adds organic matter, suppresses weeds well, moderates soil temperature, and can be turned under at the end of the season.

Disadvantages: It can blow around easily. It may have weed seeds in it. It has to be replenished annually. And it’s flammable. Some say it’s not super attractive.

Notes:

• Purchase straw, not hay. Hay has lots of weed seeds in it! See this article about possible dangerous pesticides in straw.
• Pre-sprout weed seeds in your straw by watering the bales a couple of weeks before spreading the straw. Remove any that have sprouted as you spread it.
• Get tips on how to mulch your vegetable garden.

Corn Stalks and Corn Cobs – Recommended

This mulch is best for vegetable gardens.

Depth: 2 inches.

Advantages: Corn stalks make a good winter mulch.

• They let in water, prevent the evaporation of water, add organic matter, suppress weeds, and moderate soil temperatures.
• They’re free of weed seeds and can be turned under in the spring.

Disadvantages: They can mat or blow away. Shredded stalks aren’t the most attractive mulch. It may not be readily available where you live.

Notes:

• Stalks should be shredded, and cobs should be ground up.
• Mix the stalks with straw to prevent matting.
• If you want to use stalks from your own garden in the spring, you’ll need space to store them over the winter.

Cotton Burrs – Recommended

Cotton burrs are best for vegetable gardens and are recommended if you can find a source of burrs from a producer who doesn’t use a lot of pesticides and doesn’t chemically defoliate the plants.

Advantages: They let in water, add organic matter, prevent water from evaporating, suppress weeds, moderate soil temperatures, and are weed-seed-free.

Disadvantages: Cotton may have had a lot of pesticides applied to it.

Notes: Don’t use burrs from chemically defoliated plants.

Evergreen Boughs – Recommended

Evergreen branches are best to use on perennials or small shrubs that need protection over the winter.

Depth: Several layers.

Advantages: Good for insulation during the winter to prevent heaving and frost damage.

Notes: Remove them in the spring when the soil warms up and the threat of frost has passed.

Green Manure/Cover Crops – Recommended

Cover crops improve your garden soil and reduce weeds. Examples include ryegrass, winter rye, oats, buckwheat, barley, and annual clovers.

Cover crops are best for vegetable gardens and orchards.

Advantages: They let in water, add lots of organic matter, prevent water from evaporating, suppress weeds, and moderate soil temperatures while they’re growing. As a bonus, they attract many beneficial insects when they flower.

Disadvantages: You won’t be able to grow vegetables while you’re growing a cover crop.

Notes: You must turn them under or cut them down before they go to seed. Otherwise, they’ll spread and become a nuisance.

Grass Clippings as Mulch – Recommended

Grass clippings are best used on your lawn if you have a mulching mower.

• Mulching your lawn clippings can reduce your lawn fertilizer needs by up to 25%.
• The next best place to use them is your compost pile.
• You can also use them in your vegetable garden if you’re careful about how you apply them.

Depth: up to one inch.

Advantages: They let in water, prevent evaporation of water, add organic matter, they’re typically free of weed seeds, and they can be turned under at the end of the season, and they’re free.

Disadvantages: It can mat or blow away. When it mats, it creates a stinky, slimy mess. Allow the clippings to dry out first, and apply them in thin layers. Add additional thin layers as they decompose.

Notes: Don’t use clippings in your garden if they were recently sprayed with weed killer or if the lawn has gone to seed or has many weeds. Bag these clippings instead.

BONUS: Download my free printable as a bonus for joining my newsletter: Mulching Cheat Sheet: Pick the perfect mulch.

Leaf mulch (shredded leaves) can be used in either your vegetable garden or ornamental garden.

Depth: 2 inches.

Advantages: It lets in water, prevents evaporation of water, adds organic matter, it’s typically free of weed seeds, can be turned under at the end of the season, and leaves are free.

Disadvantages: Can easily mat or blow away. You must collect them in the fall and have a place to store them over the winter if you want to use them in the spring. They can look messy.

Notes: Mix shredded leaves with straw mulch to prevent matting.

Living Mulch – Recommended

Living mulch, especially perennial groundcovers, works well in ornamental gardens or orchards.

Advantages: They’re attractive. They let in water, prevent the evaporation of water, add organic matter, suppress weeds somewhat, moderate soil temperatures, and they won’t blow or wash away.

Disadvantages: Can take over parts of your garden if you choose an aggressive ground cover. Some require maintenance, like annual mowing or pruning.

Related: Examples of living mulch.

Nutshells, Cracked or Ground – Recommended

Nutshells are best for ornamental gardens.

Depth: 2-3 inches

Advantages: It lets in water, prevents evaporation of water, suppresses weed growth, is free of weed seeds, and moderates soil temperature. Some are attractive, and some are slow to decompose.

Disadvantages: These mulches may be expensive unless you have a nut processing plant nearby. Some shells can have sharp edges. It can blow around easily. It’s not suitable for slopes. And some can look messy.

Notes: Examples include: Pecans, Peanuts, and Hazelnuts. Avoid using walnut shells around plants sensitive to juglone.

Pine Straw – Recommended

Pine straw (aka pine needles) is best for ornamental plantings and orchards. They can also be used in your vegetable garden.

Depth: 1.5 – 3 inches.

Advantages: It lets in water, prevents evaporation of water, moderates soil temperature, suppresses weeds somewhat, and lasts a long time. It’s free of weed seeds and provides good winter protection for fall transplants because it resists compaction.

Disadvantages: It can’t be turned under at the end of the season. It’s a fire hazard. It can look messy. It adds little organic matter. And it doesn’t suppress weed as well as other mulches like wood chips or straw.

Notes:

• Pine needles don’t affect soil pH, contrary to popular myth. So, they won’t help acid-loving plants by changing the soil pH.
• You may only need to top off this mulch every few years.
• If you have large long-needled evergreens, you can harvest your own mulch.

Seed Hull Mulches – Recommended

Seed hull mulches (from cotton, buckwheat, cocoa beans, and rice) are best for vegetable gardens.

Depth: 1-2 inches, 1-inch max. for cocoa hulls

Advantages: Some hull mulches are attractive. They all let in water, prevent evaporation of water, add organic matter, suppress weeds, moderate soil temperature, are free of weed seeds, and can be turned under at the end of the season. Some are more attractive than others.

Disadvantages: They can blow around because they’re lightweight. Cotton may have had a lot of pesticides applied to it. Cocoa mulch may get moldy if it’s used in humid or damp conditions. It can also form a mat and can have high levels of potassium in it.

Notes: All hull mulches must be replenished annually.

Newspaper and Cardboard – Recommended

Newspaper and cardboard can be used anywhere you want to suppress weeds.

Depth:

• Newspaper, a few sheets thick
• Cardboard: 1 layer thick

Notes:

• Always wet the newspaper as you lay it down, and overlap the edges.
• Soak the cardboard before laying it down to be sure that both sides are wet.
• Cover the newspaper or cardboard with 2-3″ thick layer of either straw or woodchips.
• Keep the mulch and soil moist. Check to make sure that the newspaper and cardboard aren’t drying out.

Make choosing the best type of mulch simple. Download my FREE Mulching Cheat Sheet.

Types of organic mulch I recommend with reservations

Coffee Grounds – Recommended with reservations

Coffee grounds aren’t good to use as mulch by themselves.

Depth: ½ inch

Advantages: Coffee grounds let in water, moderate soil temperature, and add organic matter. It can be turned under at the end of the season if you cover it with a second mulch that also can be turned under.

Disadvantages: Coffee grounds can compact and crust over unless they’re covered with another mulch. And layers thicker than ½ inch compact and crust over more.

Notes:

• To use coffee grounds as a mulch, apply a half-inch layer. Cover that with a 3-4″ layer of coarse organic mulch (wood chips or straw).
• Don’t use coffee grounds near seeds; they’ll reduce germination rates.
• Don’t till un-composted coffee grounds into the soil.
• The best use for coffee grounds in your garden is to compost them.

Colored (Dyed) Wood Mulch – Recommended with reservations

Colored wood mulches are best used in ornamental gardens.

Depth: 2-4 inches, depending on the size of the chips.

Advantages: It moderates soil temperature, prevents the evaporation of water, is free of weed seeds, and adds organic matter. Some people find it attractive when it’s new.

Disadvantages: It fades to grey unevenly which can make topping it off more work than it should be. You may also find you have to top it off more often than natural wood mulch.

Compost – Recommended with reservations

Compost can be used in most gardens. Rock gardens and native gardens that need lean soil are the exceptions.

Depth: 1-2 inches, depending on how much organic matter you need to add to your soil. See the notes below.

Advantages: It lets in water, and adds organic matter. It can be turned under at the end of the season. Lets in water and adds organic matter. Commercially produced compost is free of weed seeds.

Disadvantages: Weed seeds will go crazy germinating in your garden if you don’t cover the compost with another mulch that suppresses weeds.

Notes:

• Get an accurate soil test to see if you should add compost to your soil.
• 5-6% organic matter is the recommended amount.
• It’s best to cover the compost with a layer of another mulch like wood chips, straw, or leaves to suppress weeds.

Shredded Wood (gorilla hair mulch) – Recommended with reservations

Shredded wood or bark mulches (sometimes called gorilla hair) are best used in gardens with drip irrigation, or in wet climates.

Depth: 2-3 inches

Advantages: It moderates soil temperature, adds organic matter, prevents evaporation of water, and controls weeds. It’s free of weed seeds and is long-lasting.

Disadvantages: It compacts and forms a barrier against water.

Notes: Only use this type of mulch if you have drip irrigation set up under the mulch, or you live in a wet climate where rain will penetrate the mulch.